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Heritage on a plate in Türkiye's Tarsus as EU-backed center keeps living kitchen alive

Pastry chef Bensu Cetin prepares mamul biscuits at the Tarsus Gastronomy Centre. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)
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Pastry chef Bensu Cetin prepares mamul biscuits at the Tarsus Gastronomy Centre. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)
October 17, 2025 03:30 PM GMT+03:00

An EU-supported gastronomy centre in Tarsus, a city with 10,000 years of history in southern Türkiye, is helping women and young people keep local cuisine alive while creating jobs and new opportunities.

Chef Aysel Koyuncu serves traditional dishes prepared at the Tarsus Gastronomy Centre. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)
Chef Aysel Koyuncu serves traditional dishes prepared at the Tarsus Gastronomy Centre. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)

A living kitchen powered by local women

In the historic Siptilli Bazaar, the Tarsus Gastronomy Center—run by Tarsus Municipality’s Tarsus Imar Ltd and supported by the EU-funded Social Entrepreneurship, Empowerment and Cohesion (SEECO) project—has turned daily cooking into shared heritage.

Hot-meal chef Aysel Koyuncu says a simple iftar led to her new livelihood: “It was Ramadan … ‘If I win, I’ll open a traditional culinary center, and you’ll run the kitchen.’ He kept his promise. This is now my livelihood.” The center employs 17 people, 10 of them women, bringing trained and self-taught cooks together in one team.

Small lahmacun, a local version of the famous flatbread topped with minced lamb, onion and red pepper, unique to Tarsus. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)
Small lahmacun, a local version of the famous flatbread topped with minced lamb, onion and red pepper, unique to Tarsus. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)

Recipes that bind place, memory and identity

The center showcases a blend of Turkish, Arab and Kurdish cuisines through dishes that locals say capture the city’s multicultural soul. Tarsus kebab stands out for combining vegetables with minced lamb. Small lahmacun is made with minced lamb, onion and red pepper—served in classic, cheese, potato, spinach and even tiny “kus gozu” (bird’s eye) versions.

Hummus arrives hot as a main dish, built on well-cooked chickpeas and local tahini, served with pickles and bread and eaten with a dessert spoon. On the sweet side, pastry chef Bensu Cetin prepares mamul biscuits by pressing semolina-based dough filled with walnuts into wooden molds, treating a tradition as a craft.

Participants attend a traditional dessert workshop at the Tarsus Gastronomy Centre. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)
Participants attend a traditional dessert workshop at the Tarsus Gastronomy Centre. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)

Workshops that hand skills down the line

To keep knowledge in circulation, the center runs free workshops on traditional recipes for the public, with a special focus on women.

Participants describe how they sign up to learn time-honored methods—some come after seeing the center on Instagram, others join because shapes and techniques look familiar from home cooking. The aim, managers say, is to pass techniques to a younger generation so that cultural continuity is maintained.

The entrance of the Tarsus Gastronomy Centre, located in the historic Siptilli Bazaar. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)
The entrance of the Tarsus Gastronomy Centre, located in the historic Siptilli Bazaar. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)

Locals buy in and spread the word

Regular visitors from local associations bring first-timers, calling the venue a “treasure for Tarsus.” Others praise the clean, supervised setting and say dishes such as stuffed cabbage with tahini sauce taste just like home.

The center has become a community hub where pride in local flavor meets everyday hospitality.

The Acting Head of the Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye, Jurgis Vilcinskas. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)
The Acting Head of the Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye, Jurgis Vilcinskas. (Photo via Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye)

EU backing that turns heritage into opportunity

For the EU side, food is a way to carry stories of place. “Food carries the stories of a place—its history, people, and soul,” says the Acting Head of the Delegation of the European Union to Türkiye Jurgis Vilcinskas.

“With the support of the EU, we are helping to preserve centuries-old traditions and empowering women and young people … The Tarsus Gastronomy Center is a shining example of how local heritage can inspire inclusive growth and social cohesion.”

Across Türkiye, the SEECO project has incubated or accelerated over 1,650 enterprises, created almost 1,100 jobs, and provided facilities and support to more than 18,000 people, showing how cultural heritage can also open doors to work and cohesion.

October 17, 2025 03:31 PM GMT+03:00
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