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A diplomatic row has erupted between Germany and Türkiye over food, with Berlin blocking Ankara's bid to secure protected status for doner kebab within the European Union.
In April, Türkiye applied to the European Commission to register doner kebab. The move aimed to establish strict guidelines for the production of the dish, ensuring that only those adhering to specific methods and specifications could use the name. This process mirrors the recognition granted to culinary icons like Italy's Neapolitan pizza and Spain's jamon serrano.
"If Ankara’s application is successful, only beef and lamb horizontally sliced into cutlets with a thickness of 3-5 mm could be sold as a doner. Chicken cutlets could be thicker in the poultry variety, while ground meat would be banned entirely," according to the Guardian.
The German Agriculture Ministry, led by Cem Ozdemir, a Green politician with Turkish roots, criticized the move, calling it an "intervention in the German market with a tangible economic impact."
The technical details specified in the application have caused friction between German and Turkish producers. Germany argues that the new regulations would impact local production, which includes younger animals and turkey meat, both excluded in Türkiye's specifications. Compliance would also mean significant changes in production methods, potentially driving up costs.
The application, backed by the International Doner Federation in Istanbul, states that the dish is a vital part of Türkiye's culinary heritage. Ingrid Hartges, head of the German Hotel and Restaurant Association, warned, "If Türkiye is successful in its registration attempt, the new rules would have catastrophic consequences for gastronomy businesses as well as consumers."
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